Timberline Trail

The Timberline Trail is a 40-mile loop around Mount Hood Oregon. It runs through the Mount Hood Wilderness of the Mount Hood National Forest, as opposed to things like the Columbia Gorge Wilderness, the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness, or even the Frank Church Wilderness in Idaho. I don’t know the total elevation gain or loss, but the low point is at Ramona Falls at about 3800 feet and the highest is on the other flank at 7300 feet.

This was my second attempt at the Timberline Trail. My first attempt was beaten back by a silly equipment failure. I have also done some reconnaissance and other assorted hikes around this trail. But there were still total sections of the mountain I had never experienced. Plus the fact of my never having done more than two nights on a trail led me to try this one.

I took five days to do this trip. First from Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood’s south slope to Ramona Falls. Then day two from Ramona Falls to Cairn Basin. The third day was from Cairn Basin to Cloud Cap. The fourth day was the least sure; I would be staying somewhere in the Mount Hood Meadows Ski Area and thus leaving a small fraction for the fifth day. Or perhaps get it all done in four.

I had thought that I planned well for this trip. I did without a tent and instead took a nylon tarp to save 2.5 pounds and pack space. And with good weather I left my Gore-Tex at home and took a light, inexpensive wind shell at the savings of another pound and a half. I also left my water filter at home and used chemical means [iodine] to treat my drinking water. But I still brought my telephoto lens [which I never used] and spare underwear [that I should have used]. I also discovered, at 6:30PM the Friday night before I left, that I had only about 10 shots left on the film in my camera. So I looked in the phone directory for a photo shop on the east side of Portland (Gresham exactly) and left as I had expected to the mountain. The fact that I got to the store before it opened and waited was rewarded with having just the film I use. [Kodachrome 200]

After the morning’s side trips for film and fuel I was later that I had planned to start. But I was still earlier than last year. I got on the trail about 1015PDT and was soon moving along nicely. I ran into many other people who were also starting from Timberline Lodge. Two groups were only going three days and would exit at Cloud Cap on Monday, the end of the holiday. Other groups were planning to do the whole trail in three or even two days. That may be fine for them but I want to see some of this. There was also the confusion that the Timberline Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail follow the same trail for quite a while past Timberline lodge. Many of the people I saw may have been PCT hikers.

Once I got west of Timberline lodge and on the trail itself things went well. My pack was lighter than last time and I soon was looking down at ZigZag canyon. This is rather interesting feature to go through because one wall faces mostly north and a little west while the other wall faces mostly south. The first wall I came into was the nice north-facing wall, populated with nice shady trees and flowing with seeps of cool water. Part way down this I ran into a day hiking couple. He was carrying a pack and she was carrying a baby {pregnant} I began to realize I would need water, so I asked them to get the bottle off the back of my pack for me. This saved me taking my pack off. I filled it and dropped the tablets in and asked them to reinstall it on my pack. We chatted a little about this area and we moved off.

At the bottom of the canyon I saw several groups of hikers stopped for a break. I was feeling well so I found a crossing and then started up the other side of the canyon. This side is some open, hot areas with a few shade breaks. Fortunately it does not last too long before the trail turns off more to the north out of the sun. Soon I came to the Paradise Park loop trail (Trail 757) where I stopped, doffed my pack and had a snack. I had chosen not to go into Paradise Park to avoid gaining more elevation. But Paradise Park is one of many beautiful areas of Mount Hood. From there I have even seen into the Portland Airport. But not today. [There is actually another trail that is crossed on the PCT here a little further than my rest point. That is the Paradise Park trail, number 778 that comes up from Laurel Hill.]

I redonned my pack and moved down the trail. At a small stream I met another couple that I knew was going around the mountain. Since I thought this was the last water for quite some time, I dropped the pack and got both of my water bottles out to fill. And fill my hydration bladder with the first treated water. With chemical water purifiers getting the water is quick and easy, but you must wait 30 minutes or more to drink it.

From here I moved across the trail past the problem I had the previous year with the trail not being on the map. Here I simply started into the canyon of the Rushing Water Creek and walked around the far end and then back out. Not quite as easy as it sounds because the going in side was steep and shifty across the trail and took some concentration to keep from sliding down (across) the trail. I finally came to the junction of the other end of the Paradise Loop trail and started down the long steep decent into the Sandy River canyon. This went smoothly and I stopped partway down for another planned snack. Then I continued down through huckleberries and other shrubs until I was back in the forest. Here I moved along until I again heard the Rushing Water creek near me, which told me that the Sandy was near. Around here I met two men who were looking at a campsite on the Rushing Water. I advised them that there were other campsites lower and easier to get to. I pointed them out as we went past. Finally we came onto the Sandy, the first scary river of the trip.

Most of the rivers on glaciated peaks are fed by glaciers. Mount Hood is no exception and exhibits a strange behavior. In the morning, before the sun has warmed the glacier and increased the melt, the river flow is low. But at late afternoon the melt rate increases and the rivers can become wild. The Sandy is a good example of this. When I was trying to cross it at about 1700PDT (5PM) it looked like a class two whitewater, not really water at all but a swirling, surging gray flux. Across this we had some boulders and two thin logs. Even though it was only 6 feet across and four feet down it seemed to take me an eternity to gently ease onto the log and start to cross. I was also figuring out where to put my trekking pole ["sticks’] to get the best balance. Once I was finally across it was simply a matter of winding my way through the trail detours to the regular trail and then up the hill to Ramona Falls. It was 1800PDT.

Ramona Falls is deep in the woods and unfortunately too dark for pictures. I did stop to look, but quickly moved off to find a place for myself. I found a place that I had used before. This place was perfect for my tarp and I soon had bed made and was getting my food organized for dinner. I also had to get all of my water started to purify, so I took at least one side trip with all my vessels down to the falls. Here I dipped water out with one of my bottles and filled my hydration bladders, of the brand "Platypus", with water and dropped in the tablets. The other part of this procedure would come one half hour later when I changed the water from its sickly brown color to a nice clear. This took the other part of the iodine equation, the neutralizer. (You do have to wait the 30 minutes for the iodine to kill any bad things in the water. Neutralizing sooner risks contamination.) The directions state that you use as many tablets of neutralizer as iodine (2 per liter) but I have found that 1 tablet will do two liters if you are patient. Besides, it is fun to watch the little white tablets sink to the bottom, then get little gas bubbles on them that floats them back to the top where the bubbles burst and the tablet sinks again. When you are tired, this kind of entertainment can last for hours.

Anyway, I soon had my dinner made and eaten, the dishes done and the food and trash hung up out of reach of the "microbears". Microbears (usually chipmunks or mice) are those pesky little critters that love to eat your food. So getting everything out of the pack and off the ground is good work. This done I got out of my boots and into my sandals. Then I carefully took my last container down to the falls. The first thing I did was to go down stream of my fellow campers. This way I could wade into the creek and wash my feet and legs without them complaining about me fouling the drinking water. Even so I almost howled with the cold of the water on my feet. I quickly washed and got on with the other task of filling another bottle. Finally I was almost ready for bed. First the usual dental hygiene, brush and floss. Then to use my wash cloth with the last of the hot water to wash all those places I couldn’t do in the creek. I was nice to even have the fantasy of being clean for a short while.

One other thing I had to do here was talk to my neighbors. I overheard them discussing having a fire. I kept my temper under control but politely told them that the fire danger was extremely high and no fires were allowed in this area. Fortunately they listened to me and did not even light it. But it still amazes me some of the really stupid things people still think they have to do in the west. I went to bed less than pleased.

Trail days begin mostly the same way. I wake about dawn (0600PDT here) and start to pack up little things while I stretch. The candle lantern, my watch, the vest I use for a pillow, finally my sleeping bag. I also needed to change out of my "pajamas" (actually alternate polyester clothing) and into the same underwear I used the day before. I snatched each piece off the support lines for my shelter and got dressed. The next step is to start the stove and water heating before I go back to taking down the shelter. In the middle of that I pour the boiling water into my oats and tea then go back to packing while it cools. First the sleeping bag goes into the pack bag, then the other stuff sacks of shelter, clothes or something else. The excess food (other than this breakfast and lunch) get spread around the pack "in between places". Then take a break to eat then start to wash out my oat bowl with the hot tea, which is then drunk. Lastly the pot is emptied of water and the stove and fuel stowed into the pot with other food. (Most "empty" things like bowls and pots get smaller things like food packed inside them.) Soon I am ready to hike.

This day I expect to be my hardest. From Timberline here in about 7 hours I covered 10.2 miles. But that was mostly down hill. Today will be 9.2 miles and mostly uphill (2200 feet gain). I entertain a few wild ideas of perhaps getting to Elk Cove tonight, a mile and a half beyond Cairn Basin. But that will just depend how I feel. So I go down the trail from my campsite, across the bridge at the falls then up the trail toward Yocum Ridge. As I am hiking and warming up to the exercise (sort of getting my second wind) I begin to notice the trail. The Yocum Ridge trail is crossed just less than a mile and I realize that this is just one very big switchback. 4.8 miles to be exact. Down into Muddy Fork I go (Muddy Fork of the Sandy River, if that makes any grammatical sense.) The trail here starts off well but I know there are several places where something like a tree has washed down or fallen over and caused a hairy little detour around it. I only find about three of these before I get to the flood plain itself.

This is a little misleading this year. Most everything has started to grow over so there are shrubs hiding some of the side devastation. It makes sense to me that this is where it will come back from; the sides where things still live. The center was blasted out by an extreme melt incident a few years back. The trail is still a little hard to find here, I was constantly searching for small rock cairns showing the direction. There are actually two crossings of the creek. The first, in the growing area, I got through but slipped and got my foot wet. This then led me up into the barren area, full of boulders and sand, to the other channel. This channel is easy to cross but makes the most emotional impact. At the edge of the devastation there are still whole trees, up to two feet in diameter, tossed like some wanton child’s toys. Kind of spooky to see. But fortunately I get to continue to move up into the woods and beyond this mess.

Once I was over the last of the logs and back on the trail it was a gentle up for the rest of the way. I came across a couple and pointed them at the short cut to the trail to Cairn Basin. Since this was her first time backpacking they took it. I continued on to Bald Mountain, (Not the one from Mussorgsky, something better.) where I could get a look around back at valley where I had come. And the surrounding landscape too. Beyond Bald Mountain there is a discontinuity in the wilderness. You have to go out of the wilderness area and then back in. Not much of a sweat, but still done. This is also the exit point for the Pacific Crest Trail and the entrance point for the Top Spur trail. And here I keep plodding up through the woods. I will eventually get onto the Top Spur ridge part of the trail with more nice views of the area. But first I plod, always up hill, and in the woods. I take my second food break here. I also filled my bottles on the other side of the ridge because there is no water here for quite a ways.

Finally I reach the ridge itself and have mixed news. Here it is no longer all tree covered, there are several wide-open spots. But these are sunny and hot, with a nice breeze. Some choice eh? None really, onward and upward. I finally get to the open rocky meadow on the ridge, but there are people here. So I move along to a smaller group of rocks and take another break there. Here I am having a major problem that has plagued me before. I am getting a wearing area on my left hip. I try different things to get the wrinkles out but nothing seems to help. So I rest my body here a bit before moving on. But move on I must and I soon stagger along the trail. I get up off the ridge and against the mountain and still stagger on. Near the Mazama Trail on Cathedral Ridge I take another break and reach for the magic elixir, Gatorade. Drinking this helps me get the last mile to camp. Soon I am back up on the trail again and run into four others who camped at Ramona. We chat for a few minutes then move on. Here I run into another solo packer named Tom. We continue to hike and talk together on to Cairn Basin.

Once at Cairn Basin we drop our packs and stretch. My thoughts of going on the extra two miles to Elk Cove are tossed aside. But what do we have here? I lead Tom up into the rocks where the nearest water usually is but today it is only a trickle. Next we check out Ladd Creek at the far side of your camp area. That is running too fast and is too gray [full of ‘rock flour’, finely ground rock dust]. Our only choice is to go a half mile back on the trail to the last stream crossing that had clear water. (Thinking about it and knowing what was ahead on the trail, today I would have pushed ahead the extra mile.) So I set up my tarp and he set up his tent and much else that we needed. Then we grabbed all our containers and marched back up over the hill to the stream. Part of my reason for setting up and hanging food was to clear my pack to carry the water containers. I even had two liters of water that I poured into my one leaking platy (the leak is near the top, so setting up is no loss) so that I could return with the maximum amount. Off we went, over the hill and across the top. Then down to the creek, just in time to see another group crossing. We told them of the lack of water at Cairn Basin and so they started to fill up too. Soon there were six people trying to get to the little creek without stirring up the sediment. I filled bottles and Tom pumped water through his water filter. He and I finished first and moved back up the trail to dinner.

After dinner it was just time for washing up and a few stories before bed. Then Tom noticed that one of our neighbors had decided to build a fire. I went over to talk to them about it. It was a couple in about their 20’s. The man said that it was a regular fire pit and safe. I told him of the extreme fire danger and he just laughed. So I came back to my tent and went to bed, again not sure if I would get to sleep for the night. One thing I did think up was a surprise for the firebug in the morning.

I woke again about 6. This time I had a mission. I heard Tom moving around as I got dressed. Then I took my pee bottle and tiptoed over to the neighbor’s fire pit. I quietly poured the contents over the ashes, making sure that the fire was out. Then I crept back to my own camp for breakfast and packing. About as satisfying as it gets, unfortunately.

I ate breakfast and packed as I had done at Ramona falls. With everything I got on the trail slightly later than I wanted to, at 0830PDT. But we easily crossed Ladd creek, now at its morning low, then started up a hill on the other side. This is still officially Cairn Basin, but also goes by the name W’yeast basin. Soon we were over the ridge and onto another meadow. The views of Mount Adams and even Mount Rainier were spectacular. In my opinion this is the best part of the trail, glades of trees and open meadows. As we walked I passed several people who I recognized and stopped to chat.

But the overwhelming fears of this day were still ahead. We needed to get across the Coe Branch (outflow of the Coe Glacier) and the infamous Eliot branch (outflow of the Eliot Glacier). Just after we passed through Elk Cove, more while we were transiting, the trail started downward. Soon we heard the roar of the stream ahead. Arriving at the stream itself the roar was going strong. The water cascaded through the rocks with cold ferocity. We found a couple of boulders to hop across on, but the final six feet was over two thin logs about four feet above the water. I did make it across this, but not without scaring myself half to death. But over and dry is still over and dry, so now we started up out of the canyon.

Soon we were back up at altitude, just in time to go over the three forks of Compass creek. We stopped at the last one for food and noticed a small snow bank upstream. We also knew that we were getting close to Cloud Cap because we were passing day hikers going the other way. One of these groups, which included two young French women (who Tom took an instant liking to), was there to meet one of the groups I had started with that was hiking from Timberline to Cloud Cap over the three days of the holiday. Since they were not too badly abused by the trail we reasoned that the rumors of a bridge over Eliot Branch were correct. But as we got around Stranahan Ridge and we got a very unpleasant surprise. The sign stated that the trail was closed. But there was a detour to a new bridge. Unfortunately it was 200 feet straight up the ridge. No switchbacks or any lesser slope, just straight up. So we slogged on up to the ridge crest. Here the trail changed character. Before it was smooth, now it was a jumble of rocks and sand. So I had to take each step carefully to avoid tripping. But soon I was at the bridge and over another roaring chasm. Then more up out of the canyon, but finally down. Almost directly down to Cloud Cap.

It should be known that this was the last day of the three-day Labor Day weekend. As Tom and I arrived at Cloud Cap there were many cars parked in the parking area. I had been looking forward to this stop for two reasons. First, there was city water here, and I would not have to purify any water. More to the point I could get all the water I wanted from the faucet. So I could even take a semblance of a bath. And because we were here relatively early (1445PDT) we had plenty of time to rest for the next day’s struggle. The other reason is that there is a place here to drop my trash for pick up. Probably a small weight, but nice to be rid of.

It was paradise, sort of. All I could drink, and a picnic table to sit at to eat. I could (and did) through out all of the trash I had been carrying from previous camps. I even washed out my socks and T-shirt. And as we watched and rested, people came out of the woods, got into the cars and left. By dark there were only seven cars left. The place was well deserted, which only would have happened at the end of the holiday weekend. My day’s delay had paid off well.

That evening we climbed to the top of a promontory to look at the sunset. But it was not that good, so we went over and looked at a lodge owned by the Crag Rats of Hood River Oregon. There were even people there to give us a little tour. Admittedly primitive by lodge standards, but better than my pads on the ground and tarp shelter. I went to sleep for once not worrying about fire.

This day I woke up thinking I smelled smoke. Just a hint, and Tom said he did not smell it. But the night had been warm. These seemed ominous things. But we prepared for the day and to continue. This would be the highest elevation day, up to 7300 feet on the north east side of Mount Hood.

As we mounted up, my pack seemed lighter, even with three liters of water aboard. I only had one more dinner and breakfast and two lunches. And I had dumped my trash, a small burden, but noisy. (Plastic grocery bags ‘crinkle’ a lot when they move.) Not sure what was ahead I donned my pack and headed out.

As I hike a song often gets stuck in my head. This morning it was Copland’s Appalachian Spring ballet, or at least the folksong theme. "Tis the gift to be simple, tis the gift to be free…" seemed to match my mood and my pace perfectly. Step by step I went up the long slope from Cloud Cap, toward Cooper Spur. As I rose along the trail the vegetation became more sparse. Finally, after passing the Cooper Spur cut off there seemed to be no plants what so ever, only low grasses and rocks. A vast, barren landscape punctuated with large rock cairns with poles sticking out the top. And as I got further into this wilderness the poles got more austere, until they were simply broken logs stuck upright. Each cairn was 100 meters to a quarter mile apart. I could even see one on a far ridge; a ridge that I hoped was the end of this. Not that it was lifeless. I saw several small ground squirrels running across my path. One even posed for a picture, but got tired of waiting for me to fiddle with my camera and ran off. There were even some small streams of water here, coming from snowmelt that was still present. Also present was a low cloud layer, the smoke from the southern fire.

After two hours of this I stopped for a snack. Tom caught up with me and we chatted. The peak was now behind us and all was down hill. At least until Newton Creek. We could even see some of the ski lift equipment at Mount Hood Meadows ski area. As we continued we came to Gnarl Ridge and had an argument that ended in a map consultation. We were arguing over what Lamberson Butte was. Tom finally admitted that it probably was the nasty looking thing just off our path. Now we went down into the woods. On the map the traverse from Cloud Cap to Gnarl Ridge is 3.7 miles. The end is the side trail to Elk Meadows, which seemed to never arrive. But finally I was there and into the canyon of Newton Creek. This went by through the shaded woods until I came again to a rocky creek bed.

This was not good. The creek was high and there was no obvious crossing point. Tom changed out of his boots into his sandals, so did I. This was a cold wade across a gray creek. Then we went up and through the woods some more. Tom decided to hike in his sandals, but I changed back into boots. Up over a ridge and then back down into Clark Creek canyon. Here it looked most ominous. The creek itself was a chocolate brown color and moving fast. Again no place to cross without getting wet, so I change into my sandals again. I follow Tom’s wade across the stream. But in the cold water I feel small rocks, about marble sized, striking my toes. As I step out of the water there are also countless small stones inside my sandals. I saw another clear waterfall as I came down into here, so I keep my sandals on and hike first to a small clear stream where I can rinse the grit out of my sandals. Then on another half mile to the next stream. Here, after crossing, I stop and dry my feet as best I can and put my boots back on. I also fill my water bottles and start the treatment regimen.

As I saddle up and move on we are now into the Mount Hood Meadows ski area. I hear heavy equipment moving nearby. As I hike I hear a radio, both music and a two-way radio blaring out. As I cross under a ski lift I see the source. Above me is a team working on the lift. I wave and they wave back. This seems the strangest of the whole trip. As I continue across the ridges of this area I am feeling very strange. It looks like things I have seen before on this trip. But the sounds disturb me. It is not supposed to be this way. But I keep pressing on. Tom has told me about a nice campsite near where the Umbrella Falls trail (trail 667) meets the Timberline trail. I soon pass that trail and see that Tom has stopped at a spot on the trail. There is water here, but this is the rudest campsite I have yet used. But it is 1700PDT and I am tired. So I stop and get set up. I don’t even pitch my shelter, just put my ground sheet down and my pads on that. After dinner I get more water and prepare for bed, falling asleep just after dark.

Once, near dawn I awake and look up at the stars around me. Framed between two trees is Orion, rising. As I look at the constellation I think of all of the Scoutmasters over the years that have helped me to learn the stuff I needed to be here. The people who helped me to get here now. I am overcome with emotion.

Then, in the predawn light, the machines start again. It is time to move on.

This morning is also warmer than usual. As I make my oatmeal and tea and pack up I think of being out. But first we need to get across the last river barrier, the White River. White River is so name because of the amount of rock flour makes it gray to white in color. We are packed up and ready to mount up at 0800PDT.

I had scouted a short section of the trail ahead last night. As I saw the trail almost immediately starts down into the White River Canyon. Mostly through the woods, but soon we are on the jumbled rocks and sand of the flood plain. But how do we get across? And how do we get out the other side? We wander around for a short while looking at several possibilities. Tom is trying to traverse a steep section when he slips and almost goes in the first branch, which is mostly clear. Soon he finds a way across and I follow. I am still pretty shaken. Then we find an easier crossing of the second, muddy branch, then up onto the plain again. Here we meet some people crossing the other direction. I still can not talk for some reason. But the trail is right here and I start up.

This trail goes up through the woods some, but as it ascends the open fields grow larger and the stands of trees smaller. Soon I am in total sun, staggering up a sandy slope. I have reached the PCT again and know I only have 1.3 miles to Timberline lodge. I keep struggling upward and soon see the Timberline road, so near yet out of reach. Up more, through some trees. Now down into a gully, but there is the trail out. There is my car. But I wait to show Tom the way. I turn to shade my sunburned arm. And I wait.

Tom has had an equipment failure. Back at Newton Creek his water filter cracked and became useless. He has chemical purification tablets as a backup, but I offer to drive him to Top Spur to get his car. Soon he has me in sight and I continue into the parking lot to the car. Unfortunately I have put my car keys into the pack for the previous days and now have to take the whole pack off to get them. Once our gear is loaded in the car I grab my trail head kit and we head into the W’Yeast Lodge. I wash and change into cotton clothes and fill up a water bottle. I offer to show Tom Timberline Lodge. (He has done this trail several times, but always walked by Timberline.) Tom declines and soon we are off down the mountain.

I dropped Tom off and got some lunch. I finally got home and got a shower mid afternoon on Wednesday. I waited until Saturday to shave so I could show my daughter why I don’t grow a beard. And by now most of my gear is cleaned and stowed for another trip someday. Someday, I will try the Wonderland Trail around Mount Rainier, but when?