I had wanted to hike over Tillamook Head for some time. Unfortunately there was never a hike with the club that fit my schedule. So, after leading a few hikes I finally worked up the nerve to try this from scratch. But, before I lead others on this trail I would need to scout it out myself, do a reconnaissance. Unfortunately, because of my schedule, I had to do this on Saturday 06 December, and do it alone.
This then is a story of what we call solo recon.
I had gotten back from a business trip late Thursday, done most of a day in the office on Friday and gotten my chores done on Friday night. Then I crashed. Saturday I got up early (0600PST) but still had to assemble all of my gear for the trip. Then get fuel. In all I got on the road about 0900PST.
This put me into Seaside at about 1045PST, later than I had planned, but acceptable. The trail consisted of a climb to the top of the head, about 1200 feet, then three miles across the top and down the other side to Indian Beach. Then turn around and do the same thing backwards. That should take me 4 hours to do the 12-mile round trip, and throw in an additional hour for the elevation gain. I should be out by 1600PST, well before sunset.
Although not technically a wilderness area, I ran into only one person at the trailhead. He told me of some of the trail conditions (muddy) and to watch out, or actually listen for, trees breaking in the wind. There was a high wind advisory and a storm due in that night. The trail up the north side was sheltered, but on the top of the head there would be much exposure. I thanked him and continued on my way.
The trail went up gradually, not the terrible steepness of the trails in the Columbia Gorge. I was climbing at a comfortable rate, and studying the terrain. Onward I went, keeping track of the time so I could find hourly stops that would also have spectacular views. At this point any view would have been nice because the trail was in deep forest.
I continued on up, finally gaining the more level top of the head. But even here, the trail was a roller coaster of 10-20 foot dips. It was also exposed to the south wind, so I took my parka off the top of my pack and put it on. I found several interesting viewpoints, and got some good pictures. I even explored some side trails. I finally reached Clark's Point of View at about 1300PST. This was the only marking sign I had seen in the entire first three miles.
Clark's Point of View is an interesting sight. Historically, this was the place where William Clark, while leading a small detachment of the Corps of Discovery in search of whale meat and whale oil at what is now Cannon Beach, stopped to take in the view. At first approach, the wonderful view that Clark described seems to be of the vast Pacific Ocean. But, if you can brave the sight of the 1008 foot shear drop to the beach, you can go around the fence and stand on a large stump and be rewarded of a view of the coast northward to Cape Disappointment. I took several pictures.
Since I had left my map and guidebook at home, I was doing this hike mostly by feel. I knew that the hiker's camp was somewhere ahead, and that it was 2 miles from Indian beach. But I had no idea of how far I had traveled to this point or how far the hiker's camp was. So I set a limit of 1400PST to stop, where ever I was, and begin my return. I would later remember this plan with chagrin.
After leaving Clark's Point, I continued across the waves of Tillamook head. I finally came to a fork in the path. Here I was perplexed. Both trails seemed equally used, and equally wide. Which was the correct trail? I tried the trail to the west, toward the cliff. This trail went on for about a quarter mile, then started to rapidly disappear. I was soon walking along fallen trees to keep out of the swampy bog. Well, I knew that the true trail was somewhere to the East, so I began to bushwhack toward the southeast to avoid loosing too much time. I finally spied some wooden boardwalks, about 50 meters off. I assumed (rightly) that these were the through trail and steered an intercept course.
Back on the right trail I began to get worried. It was 1400PST and I still had not reached the Hiker's camp. I stopped for a short food and water break to think. The trail at this point began to descend through woodland with little undergrowth. During this break I decided that I would press on further to the Hiker's camp. I was rewarded about 5 minutes later with the sight of an outhouse about 500 meters ahead.
I looked around here quickly and started to take the most obvious trail down hill. There was a spring here which caused the trail to be very muddy, as the gentleman I had spoken to had said. I was sure that this was the trail. Suddenly, off to the left loomed a square concrete structure. As I looked closer I spotted a large opening below it closed by an iron gate. I had found the military bunker. I explored this for some time, finding both entrances and taking pictures. Then I tried to continue down the trail, only to come to the fence at the top of the cliff.
I remembered then that the map had shown the bunker as being a side trail from Hiker's camp. So where was the real trail? I started back up hill. Near Hiker's camp I spotted a sign marking the trail. With two miles to go to Indian Beach I moved as quickly as I could. After a few switchbacks I got a view of Sea Lion Rock and Indian Beach, so I continued at my best rate of speed. I got to the bridge over Indian Creek at 1530PST. I continued on to the picnic tables, had a quick bite and started my return north.
It was now about 1600PST and the sun was near the southwest horizon. I hustled and got back past Hiker's camp by twilight. I pushed on and passed Clark's View a little after 1700PST, in the dark. It was getting cold and the wind was starting to pick up.
About 10 minutes after Clark's point I came to a fork in the trail. I did not remember this junction when I had passed it before. I guessed that the left branch would take me to a viewpoint, so I took the right. I continued on for another half-hour, until I noticed the trail going up what appeared to be a switchback. I started to worry. When I got to what should have been the turning point of the switchback, I turned and looked for the next upward segment. There was none.
I doffed my pack and got out my headlamp. I turned it on and began looking back down what I thought was the trail. But the dry hard soil had no tracks in it. And, what I had taken for a trail was simply openings in the trees. It was 1800PST. I shined my headlamp around, looking for any hint of the trail. Nothing. Well, there was a large downed tree about 100 meters south of west. If nothing else I could use that to get a higher view of the area.
I moved to the tree and stood on it, shining my light as far as I could see. I still did not see the trail. I climbed down and looked at the tree. The ground here was high and dry. I sat down in the lee of the tree to clear my thoughts and take inventory.
Remembering all my training, the first thing was to not panic. That was working fine. I wasn't lost, I knew I was on Tillamook head, somewhere north of Clark's Point. And I knew that the trail lay to the west. I also knew that the trail was near the cliff. What were my chances of finding the trail in the dark? Below average. What were my chances of finding the cliff before I found the trail? Better than average. Might I find the cliff the hard way? Quite possibly. Does anyone know I am here? No.
What did I have for supplies? I was wearing polypro, wool, and pile. A bit sweated up, but otherwise not bad. I had a spare pair of socks. I had two slices of bread left from the half kilogram loaf I had brought. A bit of jam left too. More importantly, how much water was left? I had a quarter liter of water, a half-liter of hot tea gone cold, and a half-liter of diluted sports drink. My other food consisted of some ancient dried fruit (I think they were peaches), three energy bars, some old airline snack peanuts, and some hard candy.
So, what do I do?
(To be continued…)
(The conclusion…)
I was starting to get a bit chilled so I got the rest of my stuff out of my pack. A fleece jacket and a fleece vest went on under my Gore-Tex parka. As that started to warm me up I struggled into my rainpants. My brimmed "boonie" hat (a Seattle Sombrero) was folded and stowed in favor of a wool watch cap that I kept in my parka. Out of the pack came my full length closed cell foam pad, this got unrolled and leaned up against the log so I could sit with my back to the wind and insulated from the log and the ground. I pulled my hood up.
The wind was rising, making the trees start to groan and scream. The other reason to hole up by the log was to use it as a bomb shelter; any branch or trunk, which broke off and fell my way, would be stopped by my guardian log. It also gave me a place to string up the reflective blanket, part as shelter and part as a blanket. Lastly it gave me a place to hang my secret weapon for the night: a small candle lantern. This would provide me with a long lasting light to keep the evil spirits, both external and internal, at bay. Two more things would come out of my pack, the little stove I had wanted to test and Ebenezer, the stuffed animal who is my mascot.
I started the stove to reheat my tea and made dinner of what I had. The bread and jam, much of the oldest dried fruit, and one energy bar for desert. Considering the situation, not a bad dinner. I also found a small container of pineapple, a prize to boost my spirits.
My plan was to hunker down here and keep safe as best I could until there was enough light to start hunting for the trail. The moon was full tonight, so if there was a break in the clouds after moonrise I might have a chance of getting out before dawn. Otherwise there would be light at about 0700PST, and then about a half-hour to find the trail and an hour to hike the rest of the way out. The hard part would be waiting; staying warm and trying to sleep. After I finished my tea I repacked the stove, put the cover on my pack and strung it to catch any rain for drinking. Then I rearranged the pad and the rescue blanket, fluffed up Ebenezer (who would be my pillow) and tried to get some sleep.
It was raining pretty steadily now, and the wind was making the trees groan. Periodically there would be a SNAP followed by the crash of a limb or tree trunk. Some were far off and some were frighteningly near. Fortunately, because I was near the coast, the temperature did not get too cold. The rescue blanket, and parka and rainpants kept me mostly dry. But my legs got a little cool. My fingers were starting to get cool also, but I put the mittens that I keep in my parka on and that helped. I had little heat loss to the ground, thanks to the pad, but anyone who has ever slept on one of these pads will remember that they are not the most comfortable. In all, I was warm enough and comfortable enough to spend a few hours here, but I probably would not get much sleep. But still I tried.
I woke several times during the night. The storm was not particularly violent, fortunately, and the rain was not torrential. I would have much preferred my bed at home, but I'd pretty much goofed that up, hadn't I? Now I just waited for the sun to come over the eastern horizon and give me enough light to finish the rest of my plan.
I finally began to sense the beginnings of daylight. When I could begin to discern colors I stood once again on my log and looked for the trail. Still not visible. So I packed my things, including the windfall of about a quarter liter of water, with needles and air moss tendrils included. I ate the rest of my food and drank the last of my sports drink. Hoisted my pack and set my compass to travel west. After about ten minutes I found the trail. Fifty feet further was the cliff. I hurried on down the trail to the parking lot, arriving about 45 minutes later. I got to my car and drank the quart of water I had left inside, changed into a clean, dry T-shirt, and dry socks and sandals. Then I drove home, where I would clean and dry my gear to hike another day.
Ten Essentials for Backcountry Travel:
Think Before You Enter The Wilderness: